Hi all friends and peregrinos
I have managed at last to get the last part of my Via del Plata walk - from Santiago to Fisterra, then on to Muxia and back to Santiago - onto the Amazon Books pages. You can 'Look Inside' them to see an excerpt on line and order a copy from them. If you are in Australia you may email me.
Here are
the links:
Amazon Spain:
(There's no 'Look Inside' available on this page)
Fisterra
- MuxiaWhile my next project is to do the same with my Via del Plata story, I hope soon to do the same with this one too: Enjoy
Part 2 of Cuadonga
Look on the left for part one, JanuaryWe had a late start around 10am, as all the many people had to be fed and rounded up and photographed in front of our lodgings. Then it had to be sorted out how we were to fill the cars to get back to where we had been picked up the day before!
I was last in and then off we went up the narrow lane and back to the small lay-by and then off we went down hill.
We spread out and split up into small groups most of the time. The children were lovely, jolly and shouting to each other as we wound our way along the country road looking for Cuadonga signs.
The village of San Jose came then on towards Cangas.
Soon off the bitumen and onto well rammed gravel tracks, with trees and hedges on ether side with lovely views across the valley.
Here there was a notice pointing out the mountains in front of us but today the cloud covered the mountaintops but even so the valley and beyond was very beautiful.
On and on we went down the valley and on seeing the river again we came to another of these information signs.
On this one Cuadonga was marked but still some way off and still out of sight to us even though we could see a long way.
We came on to a tarmac road then at a junction, and after snacking on cake and almonds supplied by my new friends we took a well-marked side turning.
We were now at the bottom of the valley and following the river. We crossed it over an old narrow bridge then right down the other bank by a hard wide gravel track. It was beautiful and I took many photos. I like the one with Anna in as she too snapped these delightful shots. The little ermitas and shines were her favourite though.
After a while I walked alone and lost sight of the others. I came to a village but it had no Cuadonga signs at the junctions and I had not seen where the others had disappeared too!I took a chance, turned right and came to the river and a narrow bridge over. I crossed it and where it met the road on the far side were some others of the group so I joined them.
I was fed beer and more yummy Empanada while others wandered in. There was a bit of a mix up next as we first turned right then left onto the track and managed to shout to others of the group to follow us that had not found us before. Unfortunately the track soon came back down to the big road alongside the river and we spread out in single file along it. It was beautiful but the traffic after the quiet of the earlier valley walk was not so good.
Mind you there were quaint little villages and the river with old arched stone bridges, mountains bathed in wispy clouds, all made for great views.
We passed through the village of La Riera and then in the head of the valley we saw, for the first time, the twin towers of the cathedral of Cuadonga.
I thought we have arrived as we entered the national Park but there was still a test of stamina to go I was to find out! Steps now led us up and around to the waterfall, fountain and chapel in the cave. I had been pulling my rucksack on the hard road and we had done many kilometres and my legs strongly objected to the extra weight suddenly put on them when I lifted it up! I made it to the top but was one of the last in the group to the large pool. Over the far side was the fountain.
This fountain is supposed to bless the ladies if they drink from all it's 7 spouts I was told!!! I went over to it and drank from one and took photos, all of which were blurred, I then slipped on the wet stones so came back, before I fell in, chuckle!
Now! More steps, this time up to the little chapel above. Remember all the amigos had small daypacks I was the only one about with a full rucksack! I was gasping as I came up to the top and found that photos were discouraged in the chapel but I took one or two at the entrance, then I went in.
There were several people already seated and I moved round and out and followed Anna into the cave opposite. This seemed to be mostly man made, and the end opened out into a carpark. This was surrounded by buildings and to the right a little way off the cathedral.
I joined the others of our crowd and then when Anna spoke about visiting the cathedral I followed her and some others that were heading in that direction. Only one lady actually wanted to go inside so the two of us went in.
I said my thanks for the exciting journey and all the friends that had helped me make it here. It was a strange feeling I had. I had not made Santiago this camino but I now received a feeling I had arrived! I had somehow completed my camino!
I joined the others outside and walked back. There were no restaurants up here but it was decided we would climb a few more steps to an open place with picnic tables by an ancient grain store! Here, out came the wine and cider and empanada once again.
I had to decide what to do now I had been told by Vigi to go on to see the lakes and Anna also said I should go there. The problem was the weather and time of day as well as finding where the track led from! The cloud was very low and up there it would be worse, there was only one possible hut to sleep in so food would be needed too. To tell the truth I was tired and leaving such lovely friends as this and starting again had put me in the same mood as when I had left Janis to return to Portugal. I was a bit down, yet here I was, I had made it! Time to go!
"We will take you back to Candis and there you can find a hotel and walk tomorrow" Anna said. I agreed thanking them saying I could walk back to Candis. (This was a lie. Well I could possibly but not willingly!) We sat at the bottom eating ice creams, (I love this photo of Paco chuckle,)
while the cars were brought up. We piled in for the last time and soon we were down in Cangas by the bus station. I hugged and embraced my friends and waved as they drove off back to Oviedo. Tears smarted my eyes as I set off into town to find a cheap hostel.
It took a while but I found one and got a small but comfortable room with a bathroom. The elderly gentleman took my passport and I was supposed to see his son in the evening to pay! Somehow, I guess I was very tired, I forgot this! I washed and hung up my socks to dry, showered and went to find a restaurant to eat. There wasn't many and it was too early for most but in the end I waited in a café. It was pretty cold out under the shade cover even though they had clear plastic curtains on three sides. I did receive a good meal in the end and drank most of a bottle of red and a glass of orujo. Which probably wasn't such a good idea! On returning to my room I moved my rucksack and knocked the room instructions off the wall onto the floor! Unfortunately it was covered with glass that promptly shattered. Well Perspex would be better next time I thought putting the bits of glass in the waste bin and re-hanging it on the wall! I was embarrassed at doing such a daft thing! Still I had found out I could get a bus to Oviedo at 6.30am, I would go back as it had rained all evening, and the lakes would have to wait for another time. I slept like a log and at 6am hurried downstairs with my rucksack to go get the bus! Outside I turned the first corner then remembered I had left my passport with the old man!!! I hurried back and of course could not get in, the door had locked behind me!! I rang the bell and waited, then rang again, eventually the man's son came and let me in.
"You haven't paid" he said accusingly when I asked for the passport.
"Oh! my ….!!! He thought I was doing a runner!" I was so embarrassed this time as I tried to explain and pay up!
I took the passport and hurried out again!
Leaving the Bus station in Oviedo I walked into town not knowing quite what I was going to say to Vigi for returning so quickly! I was just crossing a square when I heard my name called. To my surprise it was one of the good ladies who had looked after me so well on this walk.
"Come, we must have a coffee why are you here so soon? You didn’t go see the lakes she enquired?"
Soon Paco joined us but they both had to go see about some taxes that needed paying!
I rang Vigi and asked could I return? What a darling she is. I was allowed back, spoilt, walked off my feet every evening and fed till I set off on a bus to see Segovia three or four days later. Here are a number of shots of this wonderful town of Oviedo and walks I did before I left. There are many more and I would love you to see them but I have some great ones of Segovia I want to show you
Segovia and Avila were towns I had never seen on my travels. I still had almost two weeks before catching the plane home! First night, Valladolid I had never been there either.
See my blog
Valladolid, Segovia, Avilla, to continue the story
Bye for now
Mike
